A review of my 2019/2020 tramping season...

Of tramping in the year of the plague...

I thought I would do an review of my 2019/2020 tramping season and look at the highs and lows of the year.

Karen and I revisited the Otira Valley in early January 2020

Highlights of the year that was...

It was a real mix of trip types this year: day walks, overnight trips, Te Araroa Trail sections and Great Walks. The trips I completed saw me visit several new conservation areas: Hakatere Nature Reserve, Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve, Greenstone-Caples Conservation Park, Rakuira National Park and Paparoa National Park.

Hakatere Nature Reserve was a new park I visited in 2019/2020

This season added another 35 odd kilometers towards the completion of my Te Araroa Trail section walk with my trip along the Rakuira Great Walk. I had meant to walk nearly 300 additional TA kilometres this year but it was not to be...the trips were stymied by the Covid-19 crisis.

The Rakuira Track added 35 km's to my Te Araroa total...

Covid-19 really chucked a spanner into the works....I was right on line for some big multi day trips in March and April including some longer Te Araroa Trail sections. It all came to a shuddering halt with the shut down as we were not allowed out into the backcountry here in New Zealand. The multiple weeks we spent in lock-down will mark this year out in our memories for decades to come. 

No return to the St James Conservation Area as planned...

I had a mixture of weather this season...mostly good (i.e. sunny, clear and warm) but also some big rain events occurred while I was on the Routeburn and on the second day of the Te Ara Pataka track. On both occasions rain forced me to change my plans.

Beautiful weather on day one of my Te Ara Pataka trip...

...not so good on day two on Te Ara Pataka

Overall I think it was a good year as far as the weather was concerned.  It would have been an long summer if not for Covid 19 as we had dry conditions from late October right up to May. That has now ended as proper winter conditions have set in with a lot of rain, cold weather and snow especially in the South Island.

Rest break half way to North Arm Hut on the Rakuira Great Walk...

The trip of the season was obviously going to Rakuira/Stewart Island for the first time...it is awesome and I will definitely be going back. I am keen to tramp both the Southern and North West Circuits over the coming years. Im not sure I can fit either into the 2020/2021 season as I am trying to knock off the Great Walks but never say never...

Patterson Inlet, Rakuira Track in late January 2020...

I also really enjoyed Karen and my recent trip to Punakaiki...I think it might be the most complete holiday I have ever had it was so good. Great company, excellent accommodation, nice scenery and bugger all people.

View of Dolomite Point from our accommodation at Punakaiki

It was certainly good to see New Zealand without the tourist hordes we normally have to wade through. 

The 2019/2020 plan...a story of success and failure...

Here is the trip planning list I prepared for this season which shows all of the outings I intended to take over the 2019/2020 season. The completed trips are marked in red and you can click on the links to see the relevant trip reports. There were a number of trips which did not go ahead (mostly due to bad weather) they are marked in black. 

On the Forest Journey, Hanmer Forest, August 2019

I got a big sack full of trips done this season...I probably spent more days tramping this year than in 2013-2016 combined. Partially this was because Karen was keen to do some tramping with me and we did a few walks while on holiday.

August 2019

• Hanmer Forest Park, Forest Journey/Conical Hill Tracks: 30 July – 2 Aug, day trips (holiday with Karen)           
• Canterbury Foothills, Mt Grey Track: 17/18 Aug, day trip (rain....other commitments...)                    
• Port Hills, Taylors Mistake to Godley Head: 24/25 Aug, Christchurch 360 Trail, day trip (I walked the Bridal Path instead)
• Port Hills, Bridle Path the Heathcote side:24 August, day walk
• Lyttelton Harbour, Quail Island Track: 31 August, day walk

On Pt. 86, Quail Island, Lytellton Harbor

                        

September 2019

My Dad passed away in early September, so I went for a few tramps that month as it is my place for quiet contemplation. My Dad was keen on the outdoors when he was young. Dad was from Illinois in the United States and he liked to fish, hunt, hike and camp but he always felt out of place in New Zealand.

I wish we had taken the chance to go tramping together as he was a awesome bloke with a great supply of stories he liked to tell. I reckon he would have been a great tramping companion. 

• Banks Peninsula, Rod Donald via Waipuna Saddle: 7/8 Sep, day trip/overnight (canceled)   
• Banks Peninsula, Packhorse Hut from Kaituna Valley: 14/15 Sep, day trip/overnight (canceled)
• Arthur's Pass NP, Hawdon Hut: mid September, overnight (1 hut)
• Hokitika, some walks in the Hokitika area, Ross Water Race Track, Hokitika Gorge,  Mananui Bush Walk/Lake Kaniere, West Coast Treetop Walkway: 27-29th September  (holiday with Karen) (1 hut)

Jon at Hokitika Gorge....

                   

October 2019

• Canterbury Foothills, one of: Mt Oxford/Mt Thomas/Mt Richardson, 5/6 October, day trip (I went to Rod Donald instead)
• Banks Peninsula, Rod Donald via Waipuna Saddle, 6th Oct, day trip (rescheduled from September) 
• Banks Peninsula, Mt Herbert via Port Levy Saddle: 19th October, day trip                 
• Abel Tasman NP, Whariwharangi Hut: 26-29^th October, Great Walk: multi-day trip (1 hut)

Approaching Whariwharangi Hut in Abel Tasman NP

Whariwharangi Bay in Abel Tasman NP

                       

November 2019

• Arthurs Pass NP, Bealey Spur or Woolshed Hill, 2/3 Nov, day trip  (cancelled- rain/snow)          
• Nelson Lakes NP, Brunner Peninsula/Mt Robert Circuit, 15-17 Nov, camp at Kerr Bay Campground and day trips  (it was raining/snowing so....)
• Nelson Lakes NP, Traver's Valley Romp: 15-17 November, multiday trip
• Banks Peninsula, Langer Reserve: mid November (this was a trip to bag Josef Langer Hut but I also had a bit of a ramble around the tracks there) (1 hut)

Damp conditions at Lakehead Hut, Nelson Lakes

                        

December 2019

• Fiordland NP/Mt Aspiring NP, Routeburn Track, 30 Nov-6 December, Great Walk: multiday trip (I got as far as Howdon Hut before the track was closed due to flooding. Instead I walked down the Greenstone Track to McKeller Hut and then returned to the Divide via Howdon Hut. (3 huts)
• Canterbury Foothills, Mt Grey Track, 14/15 December, day trip      (...cancelled again..rain...)
• Banks Peninsula, Bridal Path, Lytelton side: 27 Dec: day walk

On Key Summit, Routeburn Track..before the deluge...

                                          

January 2020

• Travis Wetlands Nature Reserve, Travis Wetlands: 2nd January, day walk
• Arthurs Pass NP: Christmas Break: Otira Valley/JC's Track/Bealey Valley, over the Christmas break, 5-9th January
• Hakatere Nature Reserve, Lake Emma & Lake Emma Hut: 11 January, day walk (2 huts)
• Hakatere Nature Reserve, Woolshed Creek Hut: 18-19th January, overnight (1 hut)
• Trotters Gorge Scenic Reserve Otago, Trotters Gorge: 26th January, day-walk (on the way to Rakuira Great Walk) (1 hut)
• Rakuira/Stewart Island, Ulva Island: 27th January, day trip (1 hut)
• Rakuira/Stewart Island, Rakuria Track: 28 Jan-2 Feb, Great Walk: multiday trip (also TA Section) (3 huts)                    

Arriving at Ulva Island, Rakuira NP

February 2020

• Arthur's Pass NP, 2020 Waimakiriri River Romp, Crow Hut/Waimakiriri Falls Hut/Barker Hut, over the 2020 Coast to Coast weekend, 6-8 Feb, multiday trip...an annual event (raining in the mountains so...)
• Banks Peninsula, Te Ara Pataka (Hilltop to Diamond Harbor via Mt Herbert): 6-7 February (I walked from Hilltop to Rod Donald Hut and then had to bail out and walk down to Little River due to heavy rain/dangerous conditions on day two...I tried...)
• Lake Summer FP, Harpers Pass Track-mid February, TA Section, multi-day trip (raining...like a biblical deluge...850mm of rain in 24 hours!!!!)
• Hakatere Nature Reserve, Pinnacles Hut: 29th February-1st March, overnight (2 hut)

Passing under a waterfall on the way to Pinnacles Hut

       

  So we all know what happened in March....Covid-19 arrived with a vengeance and that as they say was that for the 2019-2020 tramping season. Here in New Zealand we were closed for business from early March right through to mid May and any tramping was strictly VERBOTEN!!!!

You were still able to get out and walk so I spent most afternoons out walking around my local area....

March 2020 (Possible trips TBC) (all cancelled-Covid 19)

Nelson Lakes NP/St James Conservation Area,  D’Urville-Waiau Valley Trip: D'Urville Valley- Moss Pass- Blue Lake- Waiau Pass- Waiau Valley- Hanmer via St James Cycleway, early March, Partial TA Section, multiday trip             

Arthurs Pass NP, Coral Track/Cons Track, late March, day trip    

                            

April 2020  (Possible trips TBC) (all cancelled-Covid 19)

Kahurangi NP, Heaphy Track or Cobb Valley or Lake Matiri or Mt Arthur Tablelands, multiday trip

Abel Tasman NP, Inland Track- Anchorage to Totaranui, multiday trip

Hakatere Conservation Park, one of: Rakaia River- Rangitata River or Rangitata- Lake Tekapo or Tekapo- Lake Ohau- all TA Sections, multiday trip     

I was hoping to tramp around Lake Tekapo in 2020.....nope!!!!

May 2020:

• Port Hills, Harry Ell Walkway: 16th May, fitness walk (the first weekend we could go walking after going to Covid-19 Level 2)
• Travis Wetland Nature Reserve, Travis Wetland: 23rd May, day-walk
• Arthur's Pass NP, Cockayne Nature Walk: 29th May, day trip (holiday with Karen)

On the Cockayne Nature Walk in late May

June 2020:

• Paparoa National Park, Punakaiki Weekend:  29 May-2 June. We walked a number of tracks including the Pororari River Track, Pancake Rocks Track, Truman's Track, Punakaiki Cavern 
• Cape Foulwind Scenic Reserve, Cape Foulwind Walkway: 2 June, day trip (holiday with Karen)
• Pegasus Bay, North Beach to Spenser Park Beach Walk: 6 June, fitness walk

On the Pororari River Track/Paparoa Great Walk

I still have a couple of trips scheduled for July 2020...given the recent bad weather we will see if they go ahead. It has been raining now for 16 days straight with significant snow dumps in the Southern Alps. I am trying to get out for some winter tramping trips but you have to be realistic about tramping in bad weather. 

July 2020:still to be completed....then 2020/2021 season starts!

• Lake Daniels Scenic Reserve: new Manson-Nichols Hut, 4-5th June, overnight
• Kaikoura, Kaikoura Peninsula Clifftop Walkway, 18 June, day walk
• Banks Peninsula, Packhorse Hut: 25 June, day walk

                                                                                              

 I was able to bag 15 new back country huts this season which has taken my total up to 218 huts visited.

Karen and I also bagged Woolshed Creek Hut in February

Final thoughts on the 2019/2020 season

What was gearing up to be a cracking tramping season turned into a small fizzer due to the Covid-19 crisis. What was especially irritating was that we had excellent weather right up to the end of May and all of the planned tramps could have been completed before winter rolled in. I just couldn't go as DOC closed facilities, tracks and huts and our movement was limited due to Covid 19.

A Covid-19 message at a track entrance...a common sight this year!

Oh well...that's the way things go sometimes...I still got lots of excellent tramping in this year...and bagged another 15 backcountry huts.

Port William Hut...one of 15 huts bagged this season...

I am currently working on a plan for 2020/2021 which includes two Great Walks, several multi-day trips, some MTB bike rides and a whole pile of day trips. I will be more thoroughly exploring Paparoa National Park, revisiting Fiordland, the St James Conservation Area plus the Canterbury Foothills and heading into Richmond Forest Park for the first time.

Lake Guyon Hut in the St James is targeted in the 2020/2021 tramping season..

It will be interesting to see what a season with little to no international trampers will be like....will it be Nirvana or the seventh circle of hell?

Y'all come back soon to see what I am going to be up to over the next tramping season...

The rhythm of the seasons..how weather affects tramping in New Zealand

Weather and how it influences your style of tramping

Weather is one of the major influences on when, where and how you can tramp in New Zealand. We have relatively warm oceanic weather around New Zealand, we will get warm wet air from both the South Pacific and Australia as well as an up-welling of cold air from Antarctica. 

Jon on the way back from Carrington Hut, Waimakiriri Valley, Summer 2017/2018

Added to this New Zealand is a long thin Island change, the weather at the top of the country is very different from that at the bottom. While the North Island has some mountains the main mountain range, the Southern Alps bisects the whole of the South Island. As some of these are approaching 3000 meters/9000 feet ASL they create their own weather patterns over most of the island.

Relief map of New Zealand showing mountain ranges

Lets look at the weather patterns for the country season by season and see how they influence outdoor activity.

A wild, wet Northwesterly storm builds over the Canterbury Plains

Spring: September to late November

Spring in New Zealand lasts from September to December. In the south Island Spring offers opportunities for tramping but care must be taken when planning trips. The weather in Spring can be variable but tends towards the wet, cold and windy. Mean temperatures will be around 14-18 degrees during the day, -4-5 Celsius overnight. 

Travers Valley: wet, cold and snowy conditions in the upper valley in late October...

We receive most of our rainfall for the year over these three months so any trip involving a river crossing must be carefully planned. Rivers are the biggest killer in the bush so Spring is not the time of the year for a trip that requires 30 river crossings over multiple days. 

A flooded Alfred River, Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve during a Spring rain storm...

Expect to get cold & wet when you are out tramping...thermals and wet weather gear will be your usual companion.

Spring attire in the cold...thermals, hat and wind proof jacket

Closed for business...full wet weather gear in Spring rain...nice!

That said, I have tramped in 25 degree weather in spring with nary a sign of rain so do not despair as there are fine weather windows. Spring is an excellent time of the year to visit the Abel Tasman NP as the weather is usually settled with clear, sunny days and cold frosty nights.

Spring visit to Abel Tasman National Park: sunny, fine weather all week!

During Spring a particular hazard to watch for is avalanches...large areas of the South Island are prone to avalanches and wet weather combined with late snow falls are a recipe for danger. Check for avalanche advisories in the area you are travelling to and actually pay heed to them.

 My favorite tramping destination Nelson Lakes NP is basically a no go zone in Winter/Spring due to the extreme avalanche danger. 

DOC avalanche advisory in the Travers Valley, Nelson Lakes NP

Spring is the most dangerous season for tramping so if you are going out make sure you have the equipment and skills to survive in any conditions.

Summer: December to mid March

Summer is the main tramping season in New Zealand and runs from December to mid March. This is a time of generally blue skies, light breezes and warm sunny weather. The best weather will be from February through to March as early Summer can still be wet and cold.

Summer daytrip to the Otira Valley, Arthur's Pass NP

If you are really lucky you will get to experience a classic Canterbury Nor'wester...near gale force winds combined with 30+ temperatures. Its just like being in a fan forced oven....lovely!

Classic Summer tramping in the Henry Valley, St James Conservation Area: hot, sunny, no wind and endless blue skies 

On the Lewis Pass Tops, Boxing Day 2015

You can and will get wet, windy and cold weather due to our oceanic climate but it is much rarer in Summer. You will often have extended periods of hot sunny weather: blue skies predominate. Great weather for a tent based tramping trip!

Summer is the time for those camping trips

Unfortunately Summer is also the busiest period as everyone else is out seeking the warm weather so expect company at points of interest and in the huts. 

In summer expect company in that DOC back-country hut...

Summer is great for tramping as you can basically wear a t-shirt and shorts for most of the time and in late summer it is even possible to swim in rivers, lakes and the ocean. I went for a swim in Lake Rotoroa near Sabine Hut in February of this year and it was absolutely beautiful.

Lake Rotoroa, Nelson Lakes National Park

Summer is also the season to go on those tramps up river valleys...water levels will be low enabling better access.

In the Upper Waimakiriri River Valley in the height of Summer

Make sure you have sunscreen and a wide hat as the sun can be hellish in New Zealand. 

Summer tramping attire: shorts, t-shirt, gaiters and hat

Watch for summer tramping hazards: sun burn, sun stroke, dehydration, hay fever. 

Autumn: late March to early May

Autumn is actually my favourite time of the year to go tramping. The weather will still be fine in the first month or so and the huts are a lot less busy as the tourists and occasional good weather trampers tend to stay away. Many is the autumn tramp where I have found myself alone in a 12-20 bunk hut...it is total bliss after the frenzy of summer crowds. 

Jon in his very own 6 bunk hut...three days in Magdalen Hut in May 2017

The weather patterns in autumn tend to be the most stable of the year, you will often get 4-7 day periods of fine weather inter-spaced with 2-3 days of rain so it is a bit easier to forward plan a trip.

Beautiful sunny weather mid May in the Boyle River Valley

In late autumn you will start to encounter winter and in New Zealand winter can be savage. You will get night time frosts and they can be chilling. We often receive our heaviest snow falls in late autumn so watch for south-westerly storm fronts coming in from the Antarctic region. Mean temperature over Autumn is 7-21 during the day but it can drop to -5 on a night with a heavy frost.

Heavy frost in the Boyle River Valley, May 2017

Autumn is an excellent time of the year to visit coastal walks like the Abel Tasman Coast Track or Queen Charlotte Track, you can't swim but the huts are a lot quieter. In fact the Abel Tasman is one of the few year round tramping locations in New Zealand as the transport options and mild climate enable trips even in the depth of winter. 

On the Queen Charlotte Track in early Autumn 2016

Totaranui Beach, Abel Tasman NP...still beautiful even in early Autumn

A handy tip for Autumn and Winter tramps: if your water comes from a rainwater tank draw sufficient supplies to last for breakfast and day time drinking before it gets dark. The taps freeze overnight (if there is a frost) and you wont be able to get any water out of the tank for the morning coffee.

Experience...

Winter: May to early September

As far as tramping goes winter can be the quietest of the outdoor seasons.  

Bealey Spur Hut, Arthur's Pass in Summer...

...and Bealey Spur Hut in Winter

New Zealand has a temperate climate which means we generally have fairly even weather patterns but we are surrounded by oceans and close to Antarctica. This means we can get sudden and savage storms rolling up from Antarctica. Snow fall can be heavy, it is not uncommon for 1-5 metres of snow to fall in a winter storm.

Heavy snow at Lewis Pass in early September 2017

Mean daily temperatures range from 1-15 degrees but frosts of -10 are not uncommon further south. When you factor in wind chill you are talking about -20/-25 in high altitude places like the Lewis Pass & Nelson Lakes tops, the Tararua's and alpine regions of Fiordland. For example, last year Lake Angelus Hut in Nelson Lakes (at 1800 metres) had -20 degree temperatures every single day for two weeks because of wind chill. That is some serious cold weather!

Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes NP in winter snow

Over winter only very experienced trampers should be adventuring in most of the back-country...the risks from hypothermia, frost bite, avalanche and sudden storm are too great.  People do go out but they are usually climbers or hardier souls. Any tramping that is done will tend to be confined to the valley floors, close to a road end or in regions less affected by snow and cold like Golden Bay and the far north of the North Island.

Late Winter tramping in the Hawdon Valley, Arthur's Pass National Park

Winter has its own requirements when it comes to equipment; more and warmer clothing of course but also specialised gear like skis, snow shoes, ice axes, crampons, avalanche beacons and four season tents. All of these pieces of gear need training so that is why it is a good idea for the winter tramper to do a basic snow skills course to learn how to use it all correctly.

Winter ice tools: An ice axe and crampons provide traction on snow and ice

Personally, during winter I tend to stay closer to home, if I am tramping it will be on the Port Hills/Banks Peninsula, the Canterbury plains or in places like the Abel Tasman NP. Most of the Southern Alps are out of bounds, even the eastern foothills can be dangerous as they are often covered in snow. 

Snow on the Southern Alps from the Port Hills, Christchurch

A closer view of the snowy Southern Alps from atop Mt Oxford, Canterbury

I have gone on overnight winter trips before but I usually confine my activity to fitness walking and day trips. One of my winter tasks is crossing off sections of the Christchurch 360 Trail around the city. I have been section walking it for a couple of years and only have three sections left to complete.

Urban walking on the Christchurch 360 Trail (Mt Pleasant to Sumner) on a beautiful mid winters day

Another option is a trip to Quail Island on a warmer winter day...

Quail Island, in Lyttleton Harbour is a great winter time walking location

If you live in snowy Canterbury and are really Jones-ing for a night in a hut why don't you tramp up to Packhorse Hut or Rod Donald Hut both on the Te Ara Pataka/Summit Walkway. Both huts are wonderful places to stay and are on the hut booking systems so you can guarantee a bed for the night.

Rod Donald Hut on Banks Peninsula is a great location for a winter overnighter...

...as is Packhorse Hut!